Work Bench
Ok, you can’t do nothing in the garage without a work bench. So I decided to build a good sturdy one.
< [ table picture ] >
Lowes has a brace you can buy for a few bucks that couples 2 2x4s cross-members to a 4x4 stump, so I used that as my starting place.
Purchase parts list:
* (8) Simpson Strong-Tie Rigid Tie Connector, Model # RTC42 (pictured above)
* (8) 8-ft, 2x4, boards (note – don’t get snookered into getting the cheapo 2x3 boards)
* (2) 8-ft, 4x4, boards
* (2) 4-ft x 8-ft, 3/8, B-grade, plywood (one side finished, one side unfinished)
* (1) box, 1-lb 3/4-in rough construction screws
* (1) box, 1-lb 1 1/2-in rough construction screws
* (1) box, 1-lb 3-in rough construction screws
* (1) tube construction adhesive
Cut Wood as follows:
* (4) 38-in, 4x4 boards (as legs) – cut these as square and even as you possibly can!
* (8) 35-in, 2x4 boards (as cross-members)
* (2) 48x48 pieces of plywood (as the top)
* (2) 21x42 pieces of plywood, with (2) 3 1/2-in square cut-outs on one of the long sides (as a shelf)
Construction note:
At step 5 below, the wood is fairly soft, so you might be able to get away without countersinking the screw holes in the table top, but just remember to drive them COMPLETELY into the wood to make sure the screw heads don’t stick up above the surface of the wood. If after you try a couple screws, and they aren’t driving deep enough into the wood, you ought to go back and countersink all the spots you are going to drive the screws. Turn the table-top over and grind the screw points off that are sticking through so they don’t catch on something and tear through – like your jeans or your fingers! After you are all done (after stop 23), if the screw heads do stick up, you might want to go over them with an angle grinder and shave the tops off so finished parts you put on the table won’t get scratched when they slide over those screw heads. Likewise, the countersinking and/or grinding heads flat exercise ought to applied to the screws placed at steps 13, 14, 16, and 24.
Assemble as follows:
1. Lay one of the 48x48 plywood boards down on the ground
2. Lay a bead of adhesive in a line all the way around the perimeter about an inch in from the edge. Then go over 2 or 3 inches and go back and forth across the entire interior covering it as uniformly as you can.
3. Lay the other 48x48 plywood board down on top of it, being very careful to align it up with the other one.
4. Carefully step on the boards, being careful not to cause them to slip out of alignment. Start in the center and stomp in increasing circles outward to press them together.
5. Standing on the boards, drive the 3/4-in screws in a pattern spacing them about every 6 inches or so. Starting in the center and working your way outward to about an inch from the edges.
6. Stand one of the 4x4 legs up and lay two 2x4s next to it on the ground, and slide a brace down the 4x4 snug down onto the 2x4s. Slide the 2x4s snug next to the 4x4.
7. Put two of the 1 1/2 screws in each of the three boards to hold them together, bending the sheet metal so it fits snug onto each of the wood surfaces.
8. Put another of the 4x4s and another 2x4s down in a similar manner. Then likewise add the forth 4x4 and 2x4 to the structure. Don’t worry too much if it isn’t exactly square yet.
9. Slide one more brace down onto each of the legs in the same orientation as the first ones – don’t connect them, just let them set there.
10. Carefully (you’ll need a helper here) turn the structure over so the 2x4s are on top, Inspect your handi-work so far to assure the top edges are all even – if not, now is the time to remove the screws of the offending item(s) and replace them to even everything up.
11. Now, go ahead and put screws in all the holes in all of the braces – for a total of 18 in each brace.
12. Get your helper to help you lift the top onto the legs.
13. Use a tape measure to see exactly how much larger the table top is than the edge of the legs under it. Center two of the legs (like in an X axis), then center one of the legs with the one of the other ones (like in the Y axis). Drive one of the 3-in screws through the top into the leg to hold it in place.
14. Likewise center the leg in the opposite corner, and anchor it in place with a 3-in screw. And anchor the other two legs as well (with 3-in screws).
15. Draw a line on the top board with a pencil indicating the outside edge of the cross-members underneath.
16. Go along (1/2-in in from) the lines driving 1 1/2 screws every 6 inches or so into the cross-members.
17. Lift one of the lose braces up so a 2x4 board cradled in it would be about 13 inches up from the ground, and drive a couple screws in the leg just to hold the brace in place.
18. Do the same for the other 3 braces.
19. Place the remaining 2x4 cross-members in the brace cradles, sliding the legs up to the cross-members so the legs are vertical, applying 2 screws in each end of each 2x4, just to hold them in place.
20. Place the two plywood shelf boards in place on the cross-members – you might need to shave it a little here or there to get it to fit into place around the legs and each other.
21. Assure that the shelf boards sit squarely and don’t wobble. If they do wobble, you can move one or two of the braces up or down to make the wobble go away.
22. Drive screws into all the remaining holes on the lower braces.
23. Go around the shelf and drive four 3/4 inch screws evenly spaced around each of the edges into the supporting 2x4 braces.
24. Go back and put 4 more screws in the top into each of the legs. Aim each of the 4 additional screws at a slightly different angle, so as to avoid splitting the 4x4 wood.
You will notice that the imperfections of the legs will be compensated for by the weight of the entire table pressing down to make the thing set square and wobble free. If per chance it does wobble, climb up on it and do a little Jig dance. The movement will cause the wood to settle into place. Rebuilding a car engine on it will have the same effect.